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When assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. Yet, tucked high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” states the family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small shop earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary achievement.